Check out the Roadstercycle home page


You can also go to youtube and search roadstercycle and click on the Shindengen Mosfet wiring help.
it's about 10 minutes, I hope I don't bore you !!!

Stator extension wire suggestions, scroll down the page.

With the new circuit breaker upgrade your kit will be more compact and easier to install. First, decide where you want your new Mosfet, same place or new location and mount it. Second, cut off the old stator wire connector that previously went to your old R/R. Now slide you blue weather seals on each wire before you forget and have to cut the ends off to get them on. Strip each wire about a 1/2" back. Fold the stripped wire back on itself to make it bigger so it will fit into the terminal better as the terminals are made for 10 gauge wire and the stator wires are only usually 16 or 18 gauge. Now just crimp the copper end into the terminals, do not crimp the insulation part of the wire until after soldering and it all cools down. Solder your terminals now and make sure your solder flows into crimp nicely, you should end up with a nice shiny solder joint. If it's dull it could be a cold solder joint so heat it up again and flow a bit more solder. Once everything is cooled down and you now can crimp the insulation down. Then you can push the terminals into the gray connector that will connect into the Mosfet. There is no set pattern that you need to follow for the stator wires, just plug them in. Then plug the connector into the Mosfet.


Third, separate the red and black wire on one end about 3 inches back. Again slide your blue weather seals over the wire, they are tight so a little wetness will help with the process. Slide them back about 2 inches over the wire. Now strip your wire about a 1/4" back, and install and crimp into your terminals. Again do not crimp the insulation part of the wire until after you soldered and it cools down. Now you can install these into the black connector. The blue seals are a bit tight and wetness will help. Use a broken off piece of Q-tip to help push them in, or some other blunt tool. Then plug them into the Mosfet R/R. The positive goes nearest to the gray connector and the negative is on the outside. I usually mark these with a red/positive dot and green negative dot. If your not sure of yourself check out one this page. The yellow weather seal goes in the middle hole of the black connector.


Forth, route your wires to the battery and decide where you want the circuit breaker to be. Cut the red wire in that location and install the circuit breaker ring terminals. Strip the red wire back about a 1/4", and slide a piece of heat shrink over the wire and away from the area which will be getting hot when soldering as not to shrink the tubing prematurely. Slide the stripped end into the terminal and crimp, then solder and then use heat shrink over the joint. Repeat for the other side of the circuit breaker. The circuit breaker ring terminals are smaller than the battery ring terminals so do not mix them up. Install your circuit breaker to the ring terminals, you can do them straight through or sideways, there is a few combinations that will work nicely for your particular bike. Now finish off the battery cables with the bigger ring terminals the same way. Strip, crimp, solder, cool down, then heat shrink over the joint. Make sure you put the heat shrink on first.

Fifth, check your work, be an inspector.

Sixth, Make sure you key is off and hook up your new Mosfet kit battery leads. Be safe, no arcing and sparking!!!!!! Start your bike and check for correct charging voltage, should be around 13.8 to 14.3 volts with your RPM raised a bit. The Mosfet takes a few seconds to come online so don't get impatient.

Stator extension wire suggestions. You can rap your wires, solder and heat shrink, or crimp, solder and heat shrink using the enclosed butt connectors.

Photo 1, 2, Wrap, solder and heat shrink and Photo 3, butt connector crimp, solder and heat shrink.

If you need any help email me or give me a call after 5:00 PM Pacific. 310-766-5222